Les lles de Madeleines

It's really different in Les Illes. They are so far from anywhere in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, they are able to remain true to themselves; Acadian. Deeply French. The names of people and places, their sensibilities, the way they take care of each other, even the landscape.

The first picture shows the great care people take in making sure nothing can blow away in some of the terrific winds that can blow through. If anything is left outside (rare), it is actually tied down. Although the lobster fishery seems to be alive and well, we could not afford a feed, but we have enjoyed halibut steaks, cod feesh, shrimpies and pan-fried haddie.

Picture #2 depicts the general feel of the place. House paint is bright and cheerful, cheeks are bright red like the soil and people look you in the eye to say "Bonne Journee!". #3 shows a developers' sense of humour. Or the photographers'. #4 has a church on a hill with its ubiquitous lighted cross for mariners to take a bearing and come into the harbour on.

While we waited in the harbour at L'Etang du Nord for some rather strong winds to pass, we were adopted by a retired fisherman, un pecher, and his wife. Gaston et Margot took us into the town of Cap aux Meules for groceries and to do our laundry. On Thanksgiving Monday, they came by to take us for the only forest walk on their island and a turkey dinner back at their place. With our very best french, we admired how they had such a small, sensible house for a retired couple, using small amounts of the earth's resources and such. It was not until I took a good look around that I understood they funny look on their faces. ALL the homes are small. Very small! It costs so much to ferry building supplies over that in general, most homes are very, very small. Way to go Les Illes! Make it work!

I am writing from Port Hawesbury, Nova Scotia right now. We left Les Illes (a term not unlike the way we call our own island The County) and landed in Souris, Prince Edward Island for the night, then headed here the next day. We were so long in French Speaking Canada that we began thinking and dreaming in French, so the switch back to English was rather abrupt, but we got through OK.

Now we are in yet another harbour, waiting for weather to get our heinies to Halifax. We are beginning to feel very pressed for time and are realizing we need to move a LOT faster to stay ahead of the colder weather. Also, we don't feel ready for a passage to Bermuda, and have decided to sail coastally so we can make shorter hops rather than 6-12 day passages. Autumnal instability is with us, and we are beginning to lose more days to opposing and high winds than are getting fair weather, so our motto has now become "South, south SOUTH!!"

Don't be surprised if my next story is posted from New York State!

Remember; eat locally and pay a bit more for good food, it's worth it for your health and also the well being of other Canadian families.